But Gulu is changing fast. With peace talks progressing in Juba, capital of Southern Sudan, its air of desolation is fast being replaced by a hustle and bustle as energetic as that of any Ugandan market town. Developers are competing to get their buildings up, with a string of new constructions set to break the three-storey mark - skyscraper territory in downtown Gulu. Its band of motley but charming bicycle taxis has been replaced by motorcycle boda-bodas. The streets are full of traffic and the first jam can be only months away.
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The theme of this year's International Women's Day, Inspiring Change , is appropriate at a time when the role and influence and future of women are changing rapidly. From Cairo to Kiev, from Washington to Juba, women have been at the forefront of changing history. Like so many others, we celebrate International Women's Day, but we do so with an eye toward the women of the future.
A bout two hours east of Kitgum, in the distant north of Uganda , there's a village filled with ghosts. The people of Amoko are mostly subsistence farmers and their days are usually the same. They work, they talk, they sleep. Recently, they've been talking about Patrick Okello. Demons have been visiting him in the night; he wakes to see a strange glow in his hut as they surround him, whispering Okello, Okello, Okello.